Nazca Lines and Motion Sickness

our little plane

So Anabel and I decided to do something a little crazy.  Actually a lot crazy.  We wanted to go fly over the Nazca lines which are ancient geoglyphs located in the southern deserts of Peru.  They were created around two thousand years ago and consist of hundreds of figures ranging from simple lines to ornate carved animals.  All sounds great right? Only downside was that to get to Nazca, we had to take two buses totally a seven and a half hour trip, just one way....so naturally we decided to do it all in one day.  Got on the bus at 330 in the morning, just to clarify, i'm not a morning person, and we had to be at the bus station an hour and a half early (although we just sat in the VIP waiting room the entire time so that was pointless).  Buses were awesome, super comfy and they even gave us snacks.  Only one problem, they decided to turn on a movie (who wants to watch a movie at 4am??) and cranked the volume up.  On top of this they had the radio on, also at full volume.  So we are all rolling down the road in this bumpin vehicle listening to the tv and the radio compete with each other over which one can destroy our hearing first.  Not exactly conducive to a sound sleep.  Seven unslept hours later (although I did see the sunrise over the desert which was gorgeous) we arrived in Nazca.  Immediately got taken to the airstrip and got loaded into a four seater plane.  As in this plane was the smallest thing I have ever seen.  My host family had warned me about the bumpyness of the plane and I had told them not to worry as I have an iron stomach and never throw up.  I was wrong.  Within five minutes of takeoff the combination of air rollercoaster, searching for lines in the ground, and trying to take photos, all at the same time, my stomach was in knots.  I managed to hold it together for the majority of the flight and then the puke bag came out.  Not a proud moment.  Upon landing I got whisked off to the doctor (yes there is a doctor on site) who told me not to worry as 8 people had already thrown up that morning...which made me feel a little better.  BUT, besides the extreme motion sickness, the lines were incredible to see from the air.  Definitely an experience I would recommend to all.  After I was released from the doctor we headed straight back to the bus terminal and bused seven hours home again.  All in a days work.

the hummingbird

can you see the spider-middle of right side

Sandboarding

Overnight tripped it to Ica this past weekend which is about 5 hours south of Lima by bus.  Ica is in a desert and about 20 minutes away are these ridiculously high sand dunes that stretch for miles with an oasis called Huacachina right splat dab in the middle of them.  As soon as we arrived we were loaded into two sand buggies and before we had even buckled our seat belts, our drivers decided to let loose and take us on the equivalent of a sand rollercoaster.  I feel bad for all the people who got motion sick on that trip, but for those of us who don't mind vertical drops it was awesome.  Sand was flying everywhere, we all had sand lining our teeth! To add to the excitement, our guides whipped out a bunch of sandboards....which looks like snowboards except they have rudimentary velcro straps, are chipped all over the place, and look like something out of the Back To the Future franchise.  You lie down on your stomach and lift your legs up, and before you know it you are flying across burning hot sand at about 40 miles an hour.  Sounds safe right? Well a friend and I decided to up it to the next level and try it "parada" style, or standing up (aka how you would ride a snowboard).  I can now officially say that it is wayyy harder to sandboard, then it is to snowboard.  Pretty much no control at all, you basically have to just point your board down and try and stay standing.  We stopped overlooking the oasis to take some pictures, and then headed back because the heat was getting to all of us.  After a big lunch on the lake of Huacachina, we headed to our hotel Las Dunas for the night where we had actual water pressure for our showers...i forgot to mention that in Lima, there is little to no water pressure, so its more of a water drip out of the shower head.  Needless to say, we were so excited to have a real shower again.  We had planned on doing a bar crawl called the "Shitfaced Tour" but opted out of it as it was kind of far away.  But instead of going to bed at a reasonable hour, about seven of us decided to hike up the dune overlooking the hotel at midnight in our pyjamas with some cheap wine and a six pack of beer.  Took us about forty five minutes but the view was spectacular, overlooking all the city lights while sitting on top of a sand ridge.

Early the next morning we headed out on the bus to Paracas and Islas Ballestas, aka the Gallapegos Islands of Peru where we boarded a boat to tour the area.  The islands are formed from natural rock formations which are in the shape of natural arches and are inhabited by penguins and sea lions.  Having taken about a thousands pictures of both of these in Ushuaia, I tried to refrain from being too trigger happy.  While on this happy little boat ride, the entire left side of the boat got pooped on by the condors circling overhead.  The right side of the boat (including me) thought this was hilarious, while the left side's reactions alternated between mild irritation, laughter, and full on angry.  We joked that this was the real "Shitfaced Tour," which they didn't think was very funny.  Ironically, in the 1850's Peru got itself out of major financial issues by exporting thousands of tonnes of bird poop as a natural fertilizer to the US, England, and other places....so I guess it can't be all bad! Disembarking, we headed over to a seaside resaturant where we dined on pulpo (octopus), calamari, and ceviche (raw fish marinated in a lemon citrus juice and served with onions).  All of it so good!

Can't believe I only have 32 days left in South America, where did all this time go?!

Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley

cusco

Trip Highlight: Machu Picchu! The entire spring program in Lima flew to Cusco, the capital of the Incan Empire, in the the Andes.  The city rests at an elevation of nearly 11,000 feet which can cause some nasty altitude sickness for travelers which can be avoided (or at least reduced) by chewing coca leaves (same plant that cocaine comes from).  First time we emerged from the hotel we were greeted by three women in traditional dress with a llama being pulled along behind them.  Imagine our excitement! So we all took turns snapping photos only to be accosted for money as we were attempting to leave.  The women wanted 10 soles per person, for 6 of us, so 60 soles...thats like $30.  Highway robbery! We learned quickly not to take pictures of the locals in traditional dress because they only present themselves that way so they can make money off tourists snapping photos.  It's sad, because many women bring their children out to the streets with them because they know that tourists would rather take pictures of little kids playing with baby llamas.
We visited the ruins of Sacsayhuamán which are on the northern edge of the city which was added as a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with the Cusco proper.  The stones are so precisely fit together that you cannot fit a single piece of paper between two.  Now the city is used as a site to celebrate Inti Raymi, or the winter solstice (summer for those of us in the Northern Hemisphere).  Immediately after we had a brief tour of Cusco and all it had to offer and then we were set loose on the city.  Us girls spent a vast majority of the day shopping in the beautiful markets which were filled with exquisite scarves, gloves, bags and so much more all made out of Alpaca wool which is some of the finest in the world.  Not gonna lie, we went a little crazy.  Word for the wise, never unleash a pack of girls in an Incan market without supervision, although I'm sure all the shopkeepers were very happy that day.
Next stop on our tour was Ollantaytambo, which was the royal estate of Pachacuti, emperor of the Incan empire.  We hiked up all the terraces built so that the Incans could take advantage of the different climates at different heights to take in the beautiful view from the top through the Sacred Valley.
Nelly's House was our next stop where we learned how the women of the region prepare Alpaca wool and got a demonstration in cleaning, dyeing, and weaving the wool.  They use all natural soaps and fruits to dye the wool.  She showed us how to differentiate between baby Alpaca, Alpaca and sheep wool, baby Alpaca being the softest and sheep being the most coarse.  Also on display for us ladies were natural lip dyes, which according to Nelly are "kiss proof" which she demonstrated on the boys! They walked around the rest of the day with big red lips on their cheeks which they couldn't scrub off!

From Ollantaytambo we took a two hour train ride to the base camp for Machu Picchu.  Anabel, Bryan, Karina and I spent the entire duration of the trip playing Spades, which got very competitive.  When our train came to a stop we looked out the window to find that we were in the center of the town, as in the railway was in the center of the street.  Kind of a novelty, but we didn't take time to appreciate it as it was off to bed for our 5am wake up call the next morning.

in the sacred valley

ollantaytambo

pretty much stairs the whole way up

made it to the top of machu picchu mountain!

our group

To get to Machu Picchu you have to take a 20 minute bus ride from the town, winding up through the mountains until you feel like you are on top of the world.  It was so surreal to finally be at this location that I have heard so much about and seen in so many pictures.  A couple of us hiked up Machu Picchu mountain while the rest of the group climbed Huayna Picchu.  I'll just say this, it was like a two hour session on the stairmaster.  My buns got a serious workout.  But the view from the top, words cannot explain it, so I'll let my pictures do the talking.

Familia

A few things about Lima:
It never rains in Lima, ever.
Limenian food is top ten in the world, specialties include Cuy (guinea pig) and ceviche (raw fish)
Pisco (the local liquor) is Peruvian, no matter what the Chileans say.
They take pride in keeping their city clean, and you will find street crews sweeping the streets daily.
Lima is like Las Vegas, Casinos on every street corner.
Theres a fountain in the city center that they fill with Pisco on their Independence Day and turn it into a giant free bar!

My host family here consists of Amalia (Mami!) and her three children who are all older, Amalia, Ana, Carlos and her grandson Willy who is my age and just spent a couple months in Colorado as he is training to be a chef.  Absolutely love them all.  Mami is super up on all her health food, so we get fresh fruit juices every day and low fat soups, etc which are soooo good.  We also tried Anticucho which is cow heart, glad no one told me what it was before I tasted it, don't think I would have been able to stomach it knowing what it was, but, having said that, it was really good! There is also an abundance of fruits that I have never even heard of before, Granadilla, Guanabana, Lucuma, and a bright orange fruit that no one seems to know the name of.  They also have Passion Fruit everywhere which I eat at every opportunity! However, this sugar addict is currently missing all her cakes, cookies, and brownie batter.  I'm being spoiled rotten, if I lift a finger to help clear plates Mami comes running over and tells me to leave it all, I told her that my own mother is not going to like the person she is turning me into! We spend hours sitting around chatting, my spanish, I am happy to announce is markedly improving.

Guanabana

Granadilla

The first two days in Lima we spent on full day walking tours of the city, getting to know the area we are living in and the center of the city!  I am living in a barrio called Lince and am only about 8 blocks from the Pacifica University where we are studying.  

New Beginnings

On March 31st, the Multi-Country program participants sadly departed Buenos Aires and flew on to Lima Peru.  Some of the things I won't miss in Argentina. 1) desert which consists of a slab of cheese covered in a slab of sweet potato jelly. gross. 2) platform birkenstocks, a hot trend right now 3) the nightmare dog living in our apartment.  Things I'm super excited for in Lima 1) Machu Picchu 2) Finally having a class in English again! 3) trekking through the Amazon!

Nossa! Nossa!

doesn't our bench look comfy?!?

Keeley and I were Uruguay bound on Friday night, slightly sore after a park workout that we did on Thursday to prepare our beach bods for Punta del Este, boarding the Buquebus ferry at midnight.  We were hoping to sleep for the three hour journey, as our prospects for sleeping upon arrival in Uruguay were not so great (more on that later.)  However, unfortunately for us, the ferry turned into a full on symphony of snoring.  No joke, I have never heard so many people snoring at the same time.  Most people know I am the worst sleeper ever, and if someone so much as breathes too loudly I just lie there getting more and more annoyed with said breather.  The man kitty corner to my seat, literally sounded like a fog horn.  Having forgotten my trusty earplugs at home, I whipped out my ipod and attempted to drown out the snoring with some classical music (can't listen to words when i'm trying to sleep-i know, im a nightmare. haha).  So I wind up listening to this wordless music full blast in my ears...not very relaxing.  Only later did I realize that it was slightly ironic that I was listening to the Titanic soundtrack, while on a ferry, crossing frigid waters, in the middle of the night.  Anyways, after my sleepless journey (Keeley could sleep thorugh anything), we arrived in Colonia, Uruguay at around 3am Saturday morning.  Sleeping arraingements were not ideal, all the cheap hostels had been booked, and our broke college student budget did not include an $80 per night room....soooooo we ended up crashing like homeless people on the cold, unforgiving, metal benches in the bus terminal.  Comfy.  Bet you can guess how well I slept on those!!

Beautiful ocean

After a seemingly endless night, we rose with the sun to explore Colonia, a romantic little beach town where Porteños escape too when they need to get out of the city.  It's the oldest town in Uruguay and was designated as a World Heritage Site.  We strolled around the cobblestone streets, checked out the lighthouse, had some breakfast (Keeley wanted beef stroganoff at 8am), and then headed to the beach for a full day of lounging in the sun.  Later that night I discovered that I had managed to a sideburn onto my face, literally burnt a strip from my forehead down to my chin.  How do I always manage to mess up my sunblock? We then boarded a five hour bus ride to Punta del Este, a tourist hot spot in the summer (kind of like Mexico for Americans).  In our hostel we ran into two other guys from our program and we spent the following morning on the beach with them, which included our photo shoot at the famous Monumento al Ahogado (or the Hand) statue, which is a set of concrete fingers rising out of the sand in front of the ocean, meant to represent a hand drowning as the waves are a lot stronger on this side of the point.  We spent most of the day body surfing in the waves, tanning, and reading (managed to read the entire first book in the Hunger Games trilogy before we saw the movie Tuesday night!!).  Later, the boys told us about this place called Casapueblo that they had just found but didn't have time to go see as they were getting on an early bus.  So Keeley and I decided to take advantage of their find and hopped on a bus to Punta Ballena (Whale Point) and walked along a seemingly abandoned road for a while before stumbling upon Casapueblo which is the home of famous Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró who built it as homage to his son who was one of sixteen survivors of a plane crash.  Story goes that Uruguayan Air Force Flight 571, which was carrying a rugby team and family members,  crashed in the Andes in October of 1972, and out of the 45 people on board, only 29 survived the crash and immediate aftermath.  Eight were later killed by an avalanche that left them buried.  The final 16 that were rescued more than two months later had survived by eating flesh from their dead comrades who had been preserved in the snow,  a decision they didn't take lightly.  The survivors were only found after 72 days when two of the survivors made a 10 day hike across the Andes to a Chilean huaso who alerted authorities.  So Vilaró's Casapueblo was built as a dedication to his son who survived the horrific incident.  We walked up to it and immediately thought we had arrived in Santorini, Greece, with its completely white walls made of adobe rising out of the rocks is strange formations and curves.  The home is now open to the public and a museum has been built into it to exhibit some of the works of the artist.  Very cool.

The next morning we walked to a place where we had heard you could get american style waffles, cannot begin to tell you how excited we were, only to find out that it was closed.  Serious let down so we hopped on the bus to Montevideo, the capitol of Uruguay and spent a cold, rainy afternoon walking around.  To be honest there's not much to do/see there so we ended up convincing a Buquebus travel agent to let us hop on the earlier bus and fast ferry to get home earlier.  For only twenty bucks! Oh, South America, so easy going!

A little history, a little culture.

Our class took a field trip to El Parque Memorial, which is a tribute to the 300,000 people who disappeared during Argentina's Guerra Sucia (dirty war).  In short, between 1976 and 1863 a military government seized control of Argentina, and created a regime which forcibly suppressed dissidents.  These political activists were stolen from their homes and were never heard from again which is why they are referred to as "disappeared" because they cannot be classified as either living or dead.  Many were held in detainment camps while they were tortured and killed for the names of more revolutionaries.  Military planes also flew victims of this awful regime out over the ocean and dropped them out of the sky.  Anyway, the park was created as a memorial to all the disappeared and it includes a black wall with placards for all those who are missing, written next to many of the names is the word "embarazada" or pregnant.  Many of these babies born in the camps were secretly given to military families, and now Argentina and Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo are making an effort to relocate these individuals and reunite them with their biological families.  Their biological parents are still missing.  The youngest placard I read was for a 10 month old girl.  

one of the monuments in the park: pensar es un hecho revolucionario...to think is a revolutionary act

Cannot begin to explain how amazing of a afternoon I had on Friday though.  I convinced my friend Lindsey to take a two hour bus ride with me to this small zoo called Luján outside of Buenos Aires after class.  We found ourselves dropped off at a bus station in the middle of nowhere, so we followed the arrows and found ourselves standing at the gates of this zoo.  Upon walking in, we were literally handed a six week old tiger.  Literally the most adorable thing (sorry Beau!) that I have ever seen and we got to play around with her for a good hour or so.  We finally pried ourselves away and walked through the rest of the park, closely followed by a rather large pack of sheep.  Walking past the puma's enclosure, the zookeeper opened the gate and ushered us both in, handed us a bottle of milk and had us squirt it into our hands so the puma could lick it off.  There was only one moment of nervousness as the puma decided my leg looked tastier and wrapped his mouth around my calf-he didn't bite though!  Apparently, this zoo has found a way to eliminate a lot of the aggression found in big cats and other animals.  When they are born, they make sure each cub has equal access to it's mother's milk so that there is no need to compete for food.  Vocal commands are also used to help the animals distinguish between food and the hand that is holding the food.  All the years this zoo has been open they have never had an incident or injury.  Following the pumas, we took a camel ride, went to see my old friends the elephants, and then went and hung out with Simba for a while. Simba's teeth = massive.  Strangely though I felt no fear as he was licking milk out of my palm.  Maybe that's an indication that there's something wrong with me!  All in all, the best day.

St. Patty's Day.  Apparently Buenos Aires has one of the largest Irish populations outside of Ireland, i guess that's where all the red headed Porteños come from....? Keeley, Alanna, Anabel an I went to the Isenbeck beer festival at 1pm only to discover that the celebrations didn't start until 8pm, so we had no choice but to find the closest Irish pub and to start the festivities on our own! Shortly after our arrival, the place became flooded with Americans and the crazyness began.  I even ran into my roommate from home in the middle of this pub! At 7pm we headed over to the parade, which turned out to be about 5 people with bagpipes (which are scottish, not irish...).  Nothing too crazy, have to be honest I was expecting a little more from all the Irish Argentines! After the five person parade we decided to head back to the beer festival which was awesome! It was held in this open air events area and they had strung up hundreds of lights.  There were tons of different colored rooms with bars in each room and the best- a silent rave.  You walk in and they hand you a pair of headphones which have three to four different DJ stations.  Everyone is jamming out to their own music...the best part is when you take off your own headphones and you are standing in a completely silent room while everyone is dancing to their own rhythms and singing along to American songs that they don't know the words too! Epic.  

keeley and her headphones rocking out

On Sunday, Keeley, Alanna and I went to every single market in Buenos Aires while visiting all the areas we haven't had time to explore in the time we've been here: Recoleta, San Telmo, Boca, Puerto Madero.  Never have I been tempted to buy so many things! I did pick up a ring made with rhodocrosite which is a pinkish stone that is only found in Argentina. Apparently the Incas believed that rhodocrosite is the blood of their former rulers turned to stone, so sometimes its called Inca Rose. Nevertheless, very cool.  Can't believe we only have another week and half in Argentina, then all us multi-country kids head to Peru for the second half of our trip.  Keeley and I are off to Uruguay this weekend though for some sun, sand, and surf!